A LONGTIME QUEEN WEST STAPLE, PETER PAN BISTRO HAS REOPENED WITH NEW OWNERS AND A FOCUSED BUT ADVENTUROUS MENU.
For nearly four decades downtown diners relied on Peter Pan, a bistro that dished honest, though far from trendy fare at a busy corner of Queen Street. New owners and a major renovation have made the restaurant fashionable once again. Vintage fixtures have been restored and mingle with striking new decor elements like wall-mounted animal heads covered in carpet. On the table, chef Noah Goldberg’s ingredient-focused nose-to-tail offerings nod to finer-dining traditions while embracing a contemporary sense of culinary adventure: the daily menu could include the likes of duck pappardelle with mint peas, Welsh rarebit with Worcestershire caviar, and bath chaps (a type of pig cheeks) with celery, wood sorrel and lentils. —Craig Moy