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Hot Dining: Keriwa Café’s Canadian Identity

photo by Alexandra Grigorescu

It’s a bit of a cliché that most citizens of this country are defined by a hyphenated identity—you’re Italian-Canadian, or Polish-Canadian, or even, in the case of Keriwa Café chef-owner Aaron Joseph Bear Robe, Aboriginal-Canadian. The Alberta native, son of a Blackfoot father and Scotch-Nova Scotian mother, fittingly combines the influences of his heritage at his Parkdale restaurant, in seasonal and locally sourced dishes that do modern justice to time-tested culinary traditions. While First Nations staples like bison pemmican with red fife fry bread ($14) are on offer, don’t head into this woodsy-chic dining room expecting an exclusively (and anachronistically) “Native” experience. Order up possible mains like rainbow trout with dill gnocchi ($23) or duck with rutabaga and quince ($25), too, and enjoy an encompassing taste of Canadian-ness.

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