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Hot Dining: Italian à la Modus

Words like “upscale” and “fine dining” have begun creeping back into the repertoires of Toronto restaurateurs. After all, there are only so many rustic, casual establishments that a city can support. Thus the Financial District recently welcomed the opening of Modus, an airy and elegant space—think suede seating, white linens and statement chandeliers—where pedigreed chef Bruce Woods dishes out high-style interpretations of Italian classics. Among the seasonal, not-quite-like-your-nonna-makes mains are creamy and well-balanced lobster risotto ($29), spaghettini with mozzarella-stuffed meatballs ($24) and a perfectly braised lamb osso bucco on a bed of polenta and roasted root vegetables ($29).

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