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Hot Dining: Edible Science at L.A.B.

Its name may inspire visions of mad culinary experimentation, but College Street’s new L.A.B.—short for “Live and Breathe”—is actually quite down to earth. Co-chefs Howard Dubrovsky and Chris Scott deploy all the gadgets of molecular gastronomy—from vacuum sealers to immersion circulators—to create their dishes, but once at the table such offerings as sous vide lamb rib with cherry cola glaze ($24) and sweet potato perogies with concord grape sauce ($17) are practically comfort food, easily enjoyed within the cozy brick-and-graffiti dining room. Discerning palates are further indulged by the fact that much of the menu focuses on local ingredients, and features a variety of options for vegetarians.

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