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Hot Dining: Chicken à la Kensington

Though it boasts a cartoon rooster for its mascot, Le Kensington Bistro & Rotisserie is hardly some KFC or St. Hubert knockoff. Instead, this homey little spot is the more casual cousin of Loire, a fine French favourite on Harbord Street. Of course, rotisserie chicken ($32 for a whole bird, $16 for half) is prominently featured, but it’s not the only palate-pleaser on chef Jean-Charles Dupoire’s menu—classics like beef tartare ($12), steak frites ($22) and a diverse charcuterie ($15 or $25) are uncomplicated, but nonetheless go far beyond the offerings of take-out chicken joints. And what sommelier Sylvain Brissonet’s Ontario and French wine list lacks in breadth, it makes up for in affordability.

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