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Borealia Serves Canada’s Culinary Heritage

WEST QUEEN WEST-AREA DINING ROOM BOREALIA OFFERS CONTEMPORARY VERSIONS OF EARLY-CANADIAN CUISINE

Borealia restaurant toronto

Among the menu items at Borealia are braised whelk and bison “pemmican” bresaola (photos: Nick Merzetti)

Nowadays there are many Toronto restaurants known for serving Canadian cuisine, but few do it with such specificity as Borealia. The cozy Ossington Avenue restaurant takes its cues from the historical recipes prepared by Canada’s native peoples and those who settled here—from England, France, China and elsewhere—during the country’s first great wave of immigration. The culinary aim, however, is less about preservation than it is reinvention: chef Wayne Morris uses modern techniques to interpret pre-Confederation fare for today’s discerning diners. The results are both reverent and novel in dishes such as éclade (mussels smoked in pine needles), pigeon pie and braised whelk (a giant sea snail).  Craig Moy

• Borealia, 59 Ossington Ave., 647-351-5100; borealiato.com
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